John John Florence Surfs ‘One Perfect Little Right’

Getting good waves out here is a lot more complicated than we thought.

There’s a learning curve to all the little things that have to line up before you ever get in the water: figuring out how much food to stock, knowing when the next shipment hits the island, timing a weather window with my brothers coming down, avoiding dengue, then sailing out to some remote reef in the middle of nowhere with no guarantee there’ll even be waves when you get there.

And once you’re out there, the variables keep coming. Tides. Wind. Weather. Safe anchorage. A surf forecast that seems to change by the hour.

We figured it would be worth sharing what goes into the process,the planning, the waiting, the uncertainty, and everything that happens before a board ever hits the water.

Because when it all finally lines up, and you’re sitting out on a perfect little right with nobody else around, it’s hard to put the experience into words.

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