Following a span of two seasons as the creative director at Supreme, designer Tremaine Emory has departed from the streetwear label amid allegations of systemic racism embedded within the company. In a resignation letter acquired by the Business of Fashion, Emory pointed out the lack of effective communication within senior management regarding the alleged cancellation of a collaborative project with artist and filmmaker Arthur Jafa, who is Black. The absence of transparency surrounding this situation was a central factor motivating Emory’s decision to step down. He expressed in the letter, “This has caused me a considerable amount of distress and led me to believe that there was a presence of systematic racism within the framework of Supreme.”
Emory took on the role of creative director at Supreme in February 2022, marking the brand’s first prominent appointment after its acquisition by VF Corp for $2.1 billion in 2020. The spring-summer 2023 collection, which was Emory’s debut influence, was unveiled under his guidance. Moreover, glimpses of the forthcoming fall-winter collection, which will be Emory’s final contribution, have been met with extensive praise from enthusiasts. Complex even hailed it as Supreme’s “most outstanding season in years.” As a creative collaborator with figures like Ye (Kanye West) and Virgil Abloh, Emory also established Denim Tears, a brand that uses clothing as a medium to convey narratives of the African diaspora. On the other hand, Arthur Jafa is recognized for frequently exploring themes of Black identity in America through his films. One of his notable works is the 2016 video installation titled “Love Is the Message, the Message Is Death,” condensing a century of collaged footage depicting Black resilience and ongoing community-related hardships into a seven-minute montage.
Supreme issued a counterstatement to all of Emory’s allegations through the Business of Fashion, refuting his “description of our company and the handling of the Arthur Jafa project.” The brand insisted that the Jafa project had not been canceled. In response, Emory posted on Instagram, denouncing the statement as a “falsehood meant to conceal the deep-seated systemic racism within Supreme and nearly all white-owned corporations.” He disclosed that his initial intent had been to collaborate with the brand to bring about change, but he was met with resistance. Emory recounted a meeting where he was questioned about collaborating with a Black female artist, all while the Jafa project was being covertly shelved without his knowledge. Subsequent to his departure, Emory recounted a conversation with Supreme’s founder, James Jebbia, asserting that Jebbia concurred with all of Emory’s viewpoints and committed to enacting change within Supreme, promising to stand by his words.
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